A Diary of my voyage across the Atlantic
by
Benjamin Edwards



Benjamin Edwards was born in Stainland, Yorkshire, England on 1st March 1850.

In 1882, he left Stainland and emigrated to Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA with his nephew Eli Edwards.

He kept this Journal of his voyage across the Atlantic

His wife and children followed later

He died in Pittsburgh on 19th February 1891.


The individual pages of the Diary

Click the image on the left to see a larger version of the actual page from Benjamin's Diary


 Page 1


DIARY
OF MY
VOYAGE ACROSS THE ATLANTIC

March 31. Left North Dean exactly at 5 to 11 AM and reached Liverpool at 20 past 4. Had a sight of town, very fine buildings but rather dirty looking. Signs of poverty abound, there being many women sleeping on the door steps and dragging on a miserable existence by selling oranges lemons etc. – I feel grateful that those I have left behind are not so badly provided for, may God bless them and soon restore us again to each others happiness – Got lodging in Earle St – Mrs. Jacksons – very good –
April 1st – All Fools Day – I wonder if we are acting foolish this morning in harmony with the sayings of the day. I past a rather sleepless night although very comfortable & clean, but the reflections of the missing faces, and kind words disturbed my slumbers that sleep was of the question – We were up early as we had to be on the steamer at 8 o'clock. The task of getting your luggage safely on board is not an easy one providing you do not care for hireing assistance. We got our's on the "tug" all right, and at ¼ past 9 o'clock the "tug" dragged us up to the mouth of the River where the "Scythia" was in waiting for us – it took us a good while to get transferred on to the steamer, but this being accomplished satisfactory after a little delay which made it look all the longer, because a slight shower of rain began to descend soon after we reached the "Scythia".

 

 
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We secured our berths together, two of the lower bunks, and were then at liberty to look around us a little – About 2 O'clock we got our first meal on board, potatoes & point (salt) which we rather looked upon with disdain, but there was no cook's shops about here. We weighed the anchor at ½ past 5 O'clock p.m. and began to slide almost imperceptibly down the Mersey, the retiring spires, buildings and hills gradually losing themselves to our sight, but we kept the eye fixed on the Old Country as long as we could when we settled ourselves down with the best wishes for our voyage and the friends left behind – The Steamer Wisconsin left ½ a hour before us and as she is bound for the same port, we begin to speculate a little which will be the first in – she is not as large a vessel as ours by a good length, but I am given to understand that she has as much horse-power, so that she really ought to beat us on this account – Having got our tea, & bread & butter which was not as bad as one would have thought, we passed the remaining hours on deck, viewing the celestial scenery, and terrestrial, enjoying ourselves with promenading the deck & speculating as to our chances of doing the same in another few hours, whilst others were engaged in dancing to the
 

 
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strains of the melodian, very nicely played by a Young German boy – We retired to our bunk soon after 10 'Clock to try the experiment of sleeping again in a rocking cradle – The bunks are divided as here

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The berth's holds 16, 8 on each side, they are about 7 feet long, and each square about 3 feet by 1 ft 6 inches wide, we secured number 5 & 6 and pulled the division wood out and put it against the next one that we could be better covered, and both of us in this way had the advantage of both blankets, two young Irishmen were the next to us, but they did not sleep in above twice before they joined their beddings to those in the higher bunks 1, 2, 3, 4, and so were not afraid of getting ourselves into much bad company as regards smaller animals
Apr 2 – Having past a tolerable good night we were up early in the morning. The Irish Sea on which we have slept as not disturbed us much, the ship as kept moderately steady, and the consequence is that we have enjoyed our rest better than anticipated.
After breakfast we pitch our tent on the deck to see what can be seen, we sighted some island or land at 11 O'clock this forenoon and the shores of Ireland came gradually into view soon after.
We reached Queenstown Bay, at

 

 
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half past one, the Bay is a nice one and the scenery delightful. The sloping hills of Queenstown in the distance, covered here and there with beautiful buildings, many of the houses being white washed or something of the sort, is a sight lovely to behold especially at Sea when land of any description is welcomed by the voyager – We waited here for the mails until ½ past 4, when we set sail for the West in good earnest not to stop again until New York was reached – I was surprised at the quantity of letters shipped here, there were I should think 2 or 3 if not more big waggon loads of bags full of letters etc – The Wisconsin came sailing into the Bay an hour after our arrival, and as she had nothing to detain her only the embarking of a few passengers she left half an hour before us – We sailed along the shores of Ireland until dusk it was ½ past 8 when we lost sight of land. The wind for the last 6 hours has been blowing a gale, but it has not done us any harm our proud ship seems almost to entertain it with contempt. The moon shone out beautifully about 9 O'clock, and soon after we went to bed, trusting ourselves to
 

 
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Providence, to keep us in the hollow of His hand –
Apr 3 – This morning we got up at 7 O'clock. The morning is a splendid one. The Atlantic straight before us and nothing to be seen but the expanse of waters – Truly the works Lord God are great and manifold is thy power – I have not yet been sick, but feel a little dizziness that is all – We have passed a very fair night having slept as well as can be expected – We have been in sight of 2 steamers all the day. They were a long way ahead of us, one is the Wisconsin, and the other the British King which left Liverpool a few hours before us. To night the moon shone out most beautifully, being at her full, we promenaded the deck arm in arm in proper style, until ½ past 11 when we retired to our bunks – The view of the Atlantic by full moon and a cloudless sky is something admirable. The silvery sheet of waters, the starry skies and the breezy atmosphere is a treat worth a little sacrifice to obtain – If you can imagine yourself in the centre of a circle, with a distance of about 30 miles all around you, you will have some idea of it then –
 

 
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Apr 4. This morning we are in a straight line with the Wisconsin. The British King is apparently left behind as we cannot see anything of her. The morning is a beautiful one, almost cloudless, but there is a brisk wind blowing which makes us stride about on deck to keep the blood in circulation. This morning the wind is a little to our advantage and we have spread the sails, but this was not continued long the wind changing against us as heretofore – Sea-gulls are flying about here, and some smaller birds called Mother Carey's chicken. They of course sleep on the waters and live on small fish – After dinner the wind blew against us in proper style which made it rather unpleasant for those of us who like to be on deck as there is very shelter from it – We have got now fairly launched on the Atlantic having made 600 miles from Queenstown – We had to retire to bed early to night it was out of the question standing on deck, it is too rough, so let us hope that our dreams will not be disturbed by the angry sea – Our ship now does a bit of nice rocking, but I take it to be only a return to memories of childhood days when the same phenomenon lulled me to sleep –
 

 
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Apr 5. The night has been a most stormy one, the waves have washed the deck in proper style. I got up at 1. O'clock to have a look what was going on above. I found the sea rather heavy and the wind boisterous but I did not feel little dismayed or nervous about it. I think we shall be lucky if we get over the Atlantic with nothing worse than this – We have past a very fair night as regards sleep considering. To day the wind has kept up its humour, and a little rain has fallen in the forenoon but cleared off so that we could enjoy ourselves better after dinner – The Wisconsin to day is visible behind us – We take shelter on deck behind the engine house when the elements are against us, and have found one or two nice corners where we can be comfortable enough only other people are beginning to appreciate our position so that we have to catch it now & then when we can – - – - -- – - – - – - –
Apr 6. The Wisconsin to day is not to be seen but a sailing vessel this morning past us homeward bound. This has been the roughest day we have yet experienced the wind as been extremely strong so that we have been precluded from walking the deck – The sea in consequence has been rather
 

 
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rough, but nothing compared to what I expected. I have seen it apparently much worse at Blackpool many times – Our vessel seems to take it all in good earnest, and plows her way through it as though nothing particular was taking place -------
Apr 7. Good Friday – This morning a north-westerly wind was blowing the consequence being that it was very cold, and snow to some little extent fell – We have passed two sailing vessels homeward bound, it has been a very uncomfortable day for us, the cold being too severe to allow us to get much exercise upon deck, and the wind too strong –
Apr 8. This morning the wind had fallen a good deal, but as it keeps in the same direction it is very cold – During the night the wind blew very hard but I now hope that it will keep on its good behaviour. The day through out as been the best one since Monday the sun as shone out without obstruction and as thus done us a kindness, all though it as not been a warm day. There has been a steamer in view to the north all day, supposed to be the Wisconsin – After tea the wind almost entirely subsided, so that we were able to promenade the deck to our heart's content – A great many enjoyed themselves in dancing, gymnastic exercises and games one of the latter being amusing – A young man begged a good twig of tobacco and offered it as a prize and then marked on the deck the



Pages lost describing Easter on the high seas

 

 
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time for dinner we found it over so that we had to fall back again on our own resources the good things provided by thoughtful hearts – We got some tea scalded and we got as good a dinner nevertheless has many of them enjoyed – We were surprised this morning to find that the Wisconsin had stolen a march on us during the night, she was 7 or 8 miles ahead but we have gradually gained on her throughout the day and at night was again leading the race. We have seen other two boats during the day. After tea it turned out wet, we wonder how it is at Stainland and how you are enjoying the Easter Holidays –
Apr 11 – This morning has improved for the worse, snow having covered the deck and the wind very cold – There is a remarkable difference in the colour of the sea from yesterday, the water partakes more of the colour of the Irish Sea, a greenish hue this denotes I suppose that we are not far from land – After breakfast the day improved considerably, the clouds passing away & the sun doing full justice to his worthy name – Just after breakfast we discerned in the distance a small boat which made its way straight to us, it turned out to be a Pilot boat and upon reaching us, one of the men came on board the Scythia and took control of the vessel, has I understand that no steamer is allowed
 

 
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to enter the harbour without the assistance of one of these gentlemen. The Pilot boat having landed one of its men then pursued its course in search of other steamers requiring similar assistance, the Wisconsin being behind us just in sight and nothing more they would quickly fall in with her. We have passed another steamer, supposed to be a German one and there is another one which we can just discern on the horizon before us by the puffing of its smoke – At 6 O'clock just turned we got a sight of land, called Sandy Hook, we could soon afterwards distinctly see the shore and the lighthouses erected at various places thereon. This afternoon we did a bit of right good hard work, the boatswain came to 4 or 5 of us and asked us if we had any objection to lending a little assistance in getting out the mails, of course we had not, & so he said that he would see that we were all right which we took to be that we should get a tip of some sort or other for our trouble – The bags are stored right down in the bottom of the ship and a great many of them were a tidy weight to get up and carry away on to the pile in the middle of the ship – We worked very hard for a couple of hours and then were told that we could have a glass of grog a piece & have the great privilege of getting
 

 
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our tea with the sailors – We were a little disappointed but 0we did as ordered and got some very good meat, better than what was our lot in the steerage compartment and I brought a nice bone to pick the day after and put it in our box – Our vessel at night is just sliding along, imperceptibly no steam being used now – We ought to sleep well to night as it is so still & we shall have to be up early in the morning – Good night –
Apr 12 – This morning on rising we found ourselves anchored in the Bay, New York, and Brooklyn on the right hand, and on the left New Jersey City, the morning was the most delightful we had seen, and the surrounding view of the harbour and the cities above mentioned, with the landscape on either side was a sight worthy the efforts of a great painter. To give a proper description of the harbour is beyond my power, in fact any man who endeavoured to do anything like justice to it would have to study the view more days than hours we have seen it – Its appearance from the vessel and the shore is sublime to the highest degree, it surpasses the power of the imagination to conceive or the tongue to utter. The beautiful hills in the distant horizon, and the crowds of floating steamers and vessels of all descriptions together
 

 
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with the smaller craft, in the shape of ferry boats, tugs and what not? is a sight once seen never forgotten – We had to be up in the early morning as the doctor was announced to be coming on board to examine us – the examination if mostly a farce, I never went near him neither obtained a pass from our own doctor on board as the others did, I thought it would mostly be a show & I was not deceived a little bit about it – This was over in a few minutes and at 7 O'clock we sailed slowly down to the dock, which having reached it took a few hours to get us off the vessel and our baggage as well – We then had to open our boxes for the Custom Officer to pass, there was not many questions asked, or trouble caused by this official, and after this we had to see them got on the ferry boat at the other end of the pier, for their departure to the (Winter that is I mean the Castle Gardens) We got on other alongside of this and by & bye we sailed up the river to our final destination. So far as the sea journey is concerned, which was only the work of a few minutes – We were then marched into the Castle, and got our money changed
 

 
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and our names entered into some books or other kept for the purpose, after which we were kept penned up like a flock of sheep until the enquiries of friends had been finished, – we had got impatient a long while before we were liberated but about 2 O'clock we were set free & we felt young again as we proudly strolled out of the precincts of the Castle to have a glimpse of the Town, or rather I should say City – every town here as big as Halifax is called "The City" but of course New York has earned a fair title to that name – The first thing we did was to make enquiries at the Labor Office in connection with the Castle, to get some information about work – we were informed that there had been a man there in the forenoon enquiring about some stonecutters, and that probably he would be there again in the morning. We thought this was very encouraging but nevertheless we thought it would be as well if we took a stroll into The City & try at a few yards if we could do so in the short time at our disposal. We asked at 3 or 4 places but was informed that we were a month too soon, as very little stone was to be obtained at present – Subsequently we heard that there
 

 
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was a partial dispute in operation, the men having demanded an advance, and in some places they were paying it and in others not – We returned back to tea a little disappointed, but hoped that in the coming day we might more effectually test the demand for our class of labor – The Castle is a round building and well ventilated. So much so that almost any number of sparrows may be seen flying to their several nests which they occupy in the roofing, and sometimes they drop their little bits of wax upon new bonnets or the dress of people who happen to be in a perpendicular line with them – in my case it happened to drop right on the page of my note book as I was in the act of commiting these historical facts thereon for my present task of translating them out of shorthand and into this wearisome and cumbrous (Saxon Anglo) language – I wish you would learn shorthand now as you perhaps have plenty of time, in order to save all this trouble – We retired to bed in moderate good time, making our bed on the floor, all the forms having been occupied before we took steps to do so.
 

 
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Let us hope that our slumbers will be sweet – Good night –
Apr 13. We had rather a hard bed, but considering this fact and almost incessant scream of first one kid & then another, we did pretty fair at our business – Having got breakfast we went to the Labor Office to await the coming of the man who was in want of such like poor creatures as us the day before – We waited an hour or two and has he did not come and our time was wasting away we decided to try the City on a more extensive scale than we did yesterday – We did no without any better success – New York is a fine city the streets are of great length. Some of them (14 miles) and the buildings are very high and noble looking – Street cars are arranged almost in every street, so that for a few cents any one can ride from their own door to any of the city, whilst over the streets in some places railways actually run overhead the line being about level with the first storey window – The immense number of telegraphic and telephonic wires also is
 

 
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tremendous and these things alone speak volumes for the tact, industry, and business of the city – We did not see above a fraction of the city & therefore cannot say much more at present, perhaps there may come a time when you will be able to see it for yourself – Upon making enquiries when we got back to the Castle about the man who wanted some Stone Cutters we were informed that he had turned up and taken 15 hands with him to the State of Maine – We were a little disappointed at this but hoped that we should fare none the worse on the account – We decided to try the Castle for another night as we had the use of both our blankets and strike out in the morning across the river into New Jersey City and if unsuccessful there to go forward to Newark a distance of 8 or 10 miles therefrom – Our thoughts are often at home and we know you will by this be wondering and looking for our arrival every moment, may we be guided in our laborious task and you be comforted, and may these things all work together for our good – Amen – Dear wife Good night and children and all of you
 

 
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General Remarks

The colour of the Irish Sea is that of a decided green, whilst that of the Atlantic is of a deep black until one half its distance is gone over and then it gets lighter – on reaching the extremity it blends itself again into the same colours as the Irish Sea and when land is approached (America) it becomes more of a sandy dirty nature & colour -- With respect to the "Scythia," she is a fine vessel, built about 8 years ago, and consequently is not up to the mark as regards speed at the present day, but is a trustworthy Ship which counts for something – She is built with Iron, and her sides are all covered with iron plating, her length is 420 feet, and she stands 14 ft 6 in above the water line. It is surprising to think of the weight of iron employed in her construction and how She can float & carry the burdens which is her lot and yet stand 5 yards out of the water – There are 3 decks, the second one being used by the sailor & cooks etc and the 3rd by the steerage passengers – Of course the saloon passengers have more comforts, they have rooms fitted up on
 

 
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the upper deck where they can enjoy their lunch as often as they please and can also lounge away the hours on the velvet cushions, out of the reach of wind or water as much as they like – Ely says that next time he comes he will come saloon – With respect to the passengers we have had on board many different nationalities, Swedes, Norwegians, Italians, Germans, Dutch, Irish and a few English. It as been somewhat amusing to hear the different dialects and of course as added much to the interest of the voyage – There have been women and men, as old as your father & mother, and in some few cases I believe older, and there has been all the variations to the child at the breast – The diet of the ship as not been as bad as we expected it, good bread as always been plentiful. We have had to breakfast every morning bread & butter & coffee but the butter was not as nice as our own and therefore we got very little of it – the tea too tasted rather too "boiley" and we soon fell on our resources in this respect.
 

 
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We had beef and potatoes to dinner every day except Wednesday when we had a change on to fish which we could not eat – The meat & potatoes would have been nice if they would have only taken the trouble to cook them properly but they have not time to do so on our account because the saloon passengers require so much attention – The plum pudding on the Sunday would have been very excellent had it not been that they were short of suet – You see, there are so many "ifs." During our voyage we have not had it very rough, although the wind has blown pretty hard and you would have been concerned about us if it was has bad at Stainland, our vessel has not rocked up & down and from side to side as much as I thought she would have done under the circumstances. I have seen it apparently a great deal rougher at Blackpool, and I do not think a vessel like the Scythia need fear any danger on this account – Our voyage has bee utterly destitute of excitement, not having seen a single whale, porpoise, or even flying fish –
 

 
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Sea gulls & Mother Carey chickens are to be seen all the way across but it has not been our fortune to anything exceptional – I am glad to say that throughout the voyage I have not had one moments sickness. I have enjoyed my meals splendidly and the good things in our box improved our diet considerably – I have enjoyed the voyage and would have done so much more it had been a little warmer, and you & the children had been with me that is providing you would not have required so very much nursing – We have made friends with several & have promised to visit them if our lot is cast in that direction, we have not had a single case of disease or death in the journey which speaks well for the sanitary conditions of the vessel, and how on looking back over it all, I do not think we could have done much better by any other boat, So as a finishing touch to this epistle let us drink (of cold water) to the success of the "Scythia" and all those who embark on her in the future – B. Edwards
 

 

The full transcription of the Diary

The text here has been faithfully copied from the original diary, which is written in ink on 4½" x 7" lined notebook pages [February 2011]


DIARY OF MY VOYAGE ACROSS THE ATLANTIC

March 31. Left North Dean exactly at 5 to 11 AM and reached Liverpool at 20 past 4. Had a sight of town, very fine buildings but rather dirty looking. Signs of poverty abound, there being many women sleeping on the door steps and dragging on a miserable existence by selling oranges lemons etc. – I feel grateful that those I have left behind are not so badly provided for, may God bless them and soon restore us again to each others happiness – Got lodging in Earle St – Mrs. Jacksons – very good – April 1st – All Fools Day – I wonder if we are acting foolish this morning in harmony with the sayings of the day. I past a rather sleepless night although very comfortable & clean, but the reflections of the missing faces, and kind words disturbed my slumbers that sleep was of the question – We were up early as we had to be on the steamer at 8 o'clock. The task of getting your luggage safely on board is not an easy one providing you do not care for hireing assistance. We got our's on the "tug" all right, and at ¼ past 9 o'clock the "tug" dragged us up to the mouth of the River where the "Scythia" was in waiting for us – it took us a good while to get transferred on to the steamer, but this being accomplished satisfactory after a little delay which made it look all the longer, because a slight shower of rain began to descend soon after we reached the "Scythia".


We secured our berths together, two of the lower bunks, and were then at liberty to look around us a little – About 2 O'clock we got our first meal on board, potatoes & point (salt) which we rather looked upon with disdain, but there was no cook's shops about here. We weighed the anchor at ½ past 5 O'clock p.m. and began to slide almost imperceptibly down the Mersey, the retiring spires, buildings and hills gradually losing themselves to our sight, but we kept the eye fixed on the Old Country as long as we could when we settled ourselves down with the best wishes for our voyage and the friends left behind – The Steamer Wisconsin left ½ a hour before us and as she is bound for the same port, we begin to speculate a little which will be the first in – she is not as large a vessel as ours by a good length, but I am given to understand that she has as much horse-power, so that she really ought to beat us on this account – Having got our tea, & bread & butter which was not as bad as one would have thought, we passed the remaining hours on deck, viewing the celestial scenery, and terrestrial, enjoying ourselves with promenading the deck & speculating as to our chances of doing the same in another few hours, whilst others were engaged in dancing to the
strains of the melodian, very nicely played by a Young German boy – We retired to our bunk soon after 10 'Clock to try the experiment of sleeping again in a rocking cradle – The bunks are divided as here

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The berth's holds 16, 8 on each side, they are about 7 feet long, and each square about 3 feet by 1 ft 6 inches wide, we secured number 5 & 6 and pulled the division wood out and put it against the next one that we could be better covered, and both of us in this way had the advantage of both blankets, two young Irishmen were the next to us, but they did not sleep in above twice before they joined their beddings to those in the higher bunks 1, 2, 3, 4, and so were not afraid of getting ourselves into much bad company as regards smaller animals Apr 2 – Having past a tolerable good night we were up early in the morning. The Irish Sea on which we have slept as not disturbed us much, the ship as kept moderately steady, and the consequence is that we have enjoyed our rest better than anticipated. After breakfast we pitch our tent on the deck to see what can be seen, we sighted some island or land at 11 O'clock this forenoon and the shores of Ireland came gradually into view soon after. We reached Queenstown Bay, at


half past one, the Bay is a nice one and the scenery delightful. The sloping hills of Queenstown in the distance, covered here and there with beautiful buildings, many of the houses being white washed or something of the sort, is a sight lovely to behold especially at Sea when land of any description is welcomed by the voyager – We waited here for the mails until ½ past 4, when we set sail for the West in good earnest not to stop again until New York was reached – I was surprised at the quantity of letters shipped here, there were I should think 2 or 3 if not more big waggon loads of bags full of letters etc – The Wisconsin came sailing into the Bay an hour after our arrival, and as she had nothing to detain her only the embarking of a few passengers she left half an hour before us – We sailed along the shores of Ireland until dusk it was ½ past 8 when we lost sight of land. The wind for the last 6 hours has been blowing a gale, but it has not done us any harm our proud ship seems almost to entertain it with contempt. The moon shone out beautifully about 9 O'clock, and soon after we went to bed, trusting ourselves to
Providence, to keep us in the hollow of His hand – Apr 3 – This morning we got up at 7 O'clock. The morning is a splendid one. The Atlantic straight before us and nothing to be seen but the expanse of waters – Truly the works Lord God are great and manifold is thy power – I have not yet been sick, but feel a little dizziness that is all – We have passed a very fair night having slept as well as can be expected – We have been in sight of 2 steamers all the day. They were a long way ahead of us, one is the Wisconsin, and the other the British King which left Liverpool a few hours before us. To night the moon shone out most beautifully, being at her full, we promenaded the deck arm in arm in proper style, until ½ past 11 when we retired to our bunks – The view of the Atlantic by full moon and a cloudless sky is something admirable. The silvery sheet of waters, the starry skies and the breezy atmosphere is a treat worth a little sacrifice to obtain – If you can imagine yourself in the centre of a circle, with a distance of about 30 miles all around you, you will have some idea of it then –
Apr 4. This morning we are in a straight line with the Wisconsin. The British King is apparently left behind as we cannot see anything of her. The morning is a beautiful one, almost cloudless, but there is a brisk wind blowing which makes us stride about on deck to keep the blood in circulation. This morning the wind is a little to our advantage and we have spread the sails, but this was not continued long the wind changing against us as heretofore – Sea-gulls are flying about here, and some smaller birds called Mother Carey's chicken. They of course sleep on the waters and live on small fish – After dinner the wind blew against us in proper style which made it rather unpleasant for those of us who like to be on deck as there is very shelter from it – We have got now fairly launched on the Atlantic having made 600 miles from Queenstown – We had to retire to bed early to night it was out of the question standing on deck, it is too rough, so let us hope that our dreams will not be disturbed by the angry sea – Our ship now does a bit of nice rocking, but I take it to be only a return to memories of childhood days when the same phenomenon lulled me to sleep –
Apr 5. The night has been a most stormy one, the waves have washed the deck in proper style. I got up at 1. O'clock to have a look what was going on above. I found the sea rather heavy and the wind boisterous but I did not feel little dismayed or nervous about it. I think we shall be lucky if we get over the Atlantic with nothing worse than this – We have past a very fair night as regards sleep considering. To day the wind has kept up its humour, and a little rain has fallen in the forenoon but cleared off so that we could enjoy ourselves better after dinner – The Wisconsin to day is visible behind us – We take shelter on deck behind the engine house when the elements are against us, and have found one or two nice corners where we can be comfortable enough only other people are beginning to appreciate our position so that we have to catch it now & then when we can – - – - -- – - – - – - – Apr 6. The Wisconsin to day is not to be seen but a sailing vessel this morning past us homeward bound. This has been the roughest day we have yet experienced the wind as been extremely strong so that we have been precluded from walking the deck – The sea in consequence has been rather
rough, but nothing compared to what I expected. I have seen it apparently much worse at Blackpool many times – Our vessel seems to take it all in good earnest, and plows her way through it as though nothing particular was taking place ------- Apr 7. Good Friday – This morning a north-westerly wind was blowing the consequence being that it was very cold, and snow to some little extent fell – We have passed two sailing vessels homeward bound, it has been a very uncomfortable day for us, the cold being too severe to allow us to get much exercise upon deck, and the wind too strong – Apr 8. This morning the wind had fallen a good deal, but as it keeps in the same direction it is very cold – During the night the wind blew very hard but I now hope that it will keep on its good behaviour. The day through out as been the best one since Monday the sun as shone out without obstruction and as thus done us a kindness, all though it as not been a warm day. There has been a steamer in view to the north all day, supposed to be the Wisconsin – After tea the wind almost entirely subsided, so that we were able to promenade the deck to our heart's content – A great many enjoyed themselves in dancing, gymnastic exercises and games one of the latter being amusing – A young man begged a good twig of tobacco and offered it as a prize and then marked on the deck the



Pages lost describing Easter on the high seas


time for dinner we found it over so that we had to fall back again on our own resources the good things provided by thoughtful hearts – We got some tea scalded and we got as good a dinner nevertheless has many of them enjoyed – We were surprised this morning to find that the Wisconsin had stolen a march on us during the night, she was 7 or 8 miles ahead but we have gradually gained on her throughout the day and at night was again leading the race. We have seen other two boats during the day. After tea it turned out wet, we wonder how it is at Stainland and how you are enjoying the Easter Holidays – Apr 11 – This morning has improved for the worse, snow having covered the deck and the wind very cold – There is a remarkable difference in the colour of the sea from yesterday, the water partakes more of the colour of the Irish Sea, a greenish hue this denotes I suppose that we are not far from land – After breakfast the day improved considerably, the clouds passing away & the sun doing full justice to his worthy name – Just after breakfast we discerned in the distance a small boat which made its way straight to us, it turned out to be a Pilot boat and upon reaching us, one of the men came on board the Scythia and took control of the vessel, has I understand that no steamer is allowed
to enter the harbour without the assistance of one of these gentlemen. The Pilot boat having landed one of its men then pursued its course in search of other steamers requiring similar assistance, the Wisconsin being behind us just in sight and nothing more they would quickly fall in with her. We have passed another steamer, supposed to be a German one and there is another one which we can just discern on the horizon before us by the puffing of its smoke – At 6 O'clock just turned we got a sight of land, called Sandy Hook, we could soon afterwards distinctly see the shore and the lighthouses erected at various places thereon. This afternoon we did a bit of right good hard work, the boatswain came to 4 or 5 of us and asked us if we had any objection to lending a little assistance in getting out the mails, of course we had not, & so he said that he would see that we were all right which we took to be that we should get a tip of some sort or other for our trouble – The bags are stored right down in the bottom of the ship and a great many of them were a tidy weight to get up and carry away on to the pile in the middle of the ship – We worked very hard for a couple of hours and then were told that we could have a glass of grog a piece & have the great privilege of getting
our tea with the sailors – We were a little disappointed but 0we did as ordered and got some very good meat, better than what was our lot in the steerage compartment and I brought a nice bone to pick the day after and put it in our box – Our vessel at night is just sliding along, imperceptibly no steam being used now – We ought to sleep well to night as it is so still & we shall have to be up early in the morning – Good night – Apr 12 – This morning on rising we found ourselves anchored in the Bay, New York, and Brooklyn on the right hand, and on the left New Jersey City, the morning was the most delightful we had seen, and the surrounding view of the harbour and the cities above mentioned, with the landscape on either side was a sight worthy the efforts of a great painter. To give a proper description of the harbour is beyond my power, in fact any man who endeavoured to do anything like justice to it would have to study the view more days than hours we have seen it – Its appearance from the vessel and the shore is sublime to the highest degree, it surpasses the power of the imagination to conceive or the tongue to utter. The beautiful hills in the distant horizon, and the crowds of floating steamers and vessels of all descriptions together
with the smaller craft, in the shape of ferry boats, tugs and what not? is a sight once seen never forgotten – We had to be up in the early morning as the doctor was announced to be coming on board to examine us – the examination if mostly a farce, I never went near him neither obtained a pass from our own doctor on board as the others did, I thought it would mostly be a show & I was not deceived a little bit about it – This was over in a few minutes and at 7 O'clock we sailed slowly down to the dock, which having reached it took a few hours to get us off the vessel and our baggage as well – We then had to open our boxes for the Custom Officer to pass, there was not many questions asked, or trouble caused by this official, and after this we had to see them got on the ferry boat at the other end of the pier, for their departure to the (Winter that is I mean the Castle Gardens) We got on other alongside of this and by & bye we sailed up the river to our final destination. So far as the sea journey is concerned, which was only the work of a few minutes – We were then marched into the Castle, and got our money changed
and our names entered into some books or other kept for the purpose, after which we were kept penned up like a flock of sheep until the enquiries of friends had been finished, – we had got impatient a long while before we were liberated but about 2 O'clock we were set free & we felt young again as we proudly strolled out of the precincts of the Castle to have a glimpse of the Town, or rather I should say City – every town here as big as Halifax is called "The City" but of course New York has earned a fair title to that name – The first thing we did was to make enquiries at the Labor Office in connection with the Castle, to get some information about work – we were informed that there had been a man there in the forenoon enquiring about some stonecutters, and that probably he would be there again in the morning. We thought this was very encouraging but nevertheless we thought it would be as well if we took a stroll into The City & try at a few yards if we could do so in the short time at our disposal. We asked at 3 or 4 places but was informed that we were a month too soon, as very little stone was to be obtained at present – Subsequently we heard that there
was a partial dispute in operation, the men having demanded an advance, and in some places they were paying it and in others not – We returned back to tea a little disappointed, but hoped that in the coming day we might more effectually test the demand for our class of labor – The Castle is a round building and well ventilated. So much so that almost any number of sparrows may be seen flying to their several nests which they occupy in the roofing, and sometimes they drop their little bits of wax upon new bonnets or the dress of people who happen to be in a perpendicular line with them – in my case it happened to drop right on the page of my note book as I was in the act of commiting these historical facts thereon for my present task of translating them out of shorthand and into this wearisome and cumbrous (Saxon Anglo) language – I wish you would learn shorthand now as you perhaps have plenty of time, in order to save all this trouble – We retired to bed in moderate good time, making our bed on the floor, all the forms having been occupied before we took steps to do so.
Let us hope that our slumbers will be sweet – Good night – Apr 13. We had rather a hard bed, but considering this fact and almost incessant scream of first one kid & then another, we did pretty fair at our business – Having got breakfast we went to the Labor Office to await the coming of the man who was in want of such like poor creatures as us the day before – We waited an hour or two and has he did not come and our time was wasting away we decided to try the City on a more extensive scale than we did yesterday – We did no without any better success – New York is a fine city the streets are of great length. Some of them (14 miles) and the buildings are very high and noble looking – Street cars are arranged almost in every street, so that for a few cents any one can ride from their own door to any of the city, whilst over the streets in some places railways actually run overhead the line being about level with the first storey window – The immense number of telegraphic and telephonic wires also is
tremendous and these things alone speak volumes for the tact, industry, and business of the city – We did not see above a fraction of the city & therefore cannot say much more at present, perhaps there may come a time when you will be able to see it for yourself – Upon making enquiries when we got back to the Castle about the man who wanted some Stone Cutters we were informed that he had turned up and taken 15 hands with him to the State of Maine – We were a little disappointed at this but hoped that we should fare none the worse on the account – We decided to try the Castle for another night as we had the use of both our blankets and strike out in the morning across the river into New Jersey City and if unsuccessful there to go forward to Newark a distance of 8 or 10 miles therefrom – Our thoughts are often at home and we know you will by this be wondering and looking for our arrival every moment, may we be guided in our laborious task and you be comforted, and may these things all work together for our good – Amen – Dear wife Good night and children and all of you
General Remarks
The colour of the Irish Sea is that of a decided green, whilst that of the Atlantic is of a deep black until one half its distance is gone over and then it gets lighter – on reaching the extremity it blends itself again into the same colours as the Irish Sea and when land is approached (America) it becomes more of a sandy dirty nature & colour -- With respect to the "Scythia," she is a fine vessel, built about 8 years ago, and consequently is not up to the mark as regards speed at the present day, but is a trustworthy Ship which counts for something – She is built with Iron, and her sides are all covered with iron plating, her length is 420 feet, and she stands 14 ft 6 in above the water line. It is surprising to think of the weight of iron employed in her construction and how She can float & carry the burdens which is her lot and yet stand 5 yards out of the water – There are 3 decks, the second one being used by the sailor & cooks etc and the 3rd by the steerage passengers – Of course the saloon passengers have more comforts, they have rooms fitted up on
the upper deck where they can enjoy their lunch as often as they please and can also lounge away the hours on the velvet cushions, out of the reach of wind or water as much as they like – Ely says that next time he comes he will come saloon – With respect to the passengers we have had on board many different nationalities, Swedes, Norwegians, Italians, Germans, Dutch, Irish and a few English. It as been somewhat amusing to hear the different dialects and of course as added much to the interest of the voyage – There have been women and men, as old as your father & mother, and in some few cases I believe older, and there has been all the variations to the child at the breast – The diet of the ship as not been as bad as we expected it, good bread as always been plentiful. We have had to breakfast every morning bread & butter & coffee but the butter was not as nice as our own and therefore we got very little of it – the tea too tasted rather too "boiley" and we soon fell on our resources in this respect.
We had beef and potatoes to dinner every day except Wednesday when we had a change on to fish which we could not eat – The meat & potatoes would have been nice if they would have only taken the trouble to cook them properly but they have not time to do so on our account because the saloon passengers require so much attention – The plum pudding on the Sunday would have been very excellent had it not been that they were short of suet – You see, there are so many "ifs." During our voyage we have not had it very rough, although the wind has blown pretty hard and you would have been concerned about us if it was has bad at Stainland, our vessel has not rocked up & down and from side to side as much as I thought she would have done under the circumstances. I have seen it apparently a great deal rougher at Blackpool, and I do not think a vessel like the Scythia need fear any danger on this account – Our voyage has bee utterly destitute of excitement, not having seen a single whale, porpoise, or even flying fish –
Sea gulls & Mother Carey chickens are to be seen all the way across but it has not been our fortune to anything exceptional – I am glad to say that throughout the voyage I have not had one moments sickness. I have enjoyed my meals splendidly and the good things in our box improved our diet considerably – I have enjoyed the voyage and would have done so much more it had been a little warmer, and you & the children had been with me that is providing you would not have required so very much nursing – We have made friends with several & have promised to visit them if our lot is cast in that direction, we have not had a single case of disease or death in the journey which speaks well for the sanitary conditions of the vessel, and how on looking back over it all, I do not think we could have done much better by any other boat, So as a finishing touch to this epistle let us drink (of cold water) to the success of the "Scythia" and all those who embark on her in the future – B. Edwards



© Malcolm Bull 2021
Revised 15:05 / 12th May 2021 / 61028

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